frequently asked questions

After many years of furnishing customers with beautiful hardwood / laminate floors, we've noticed that certain questions are on everyone's mind. This page was designed to help you select your new wood floor. Feel free to call and / or send us email one of our sales people with any question you may have at any time.

Q. I have a particleboard subfloor. Can I have nail down hardwoods installed?

A. Many confuse particleboard with OSB (Oriented Stand board). True particleboard commonly used in some manufactured homes does not have the holding power of hardwood flooring fasteners and will loosen over time. There are certain types of OSB that can be used for solid nail down hardwood floors. It is best to consult the manufacturers warranty specs.

Q. I have a concrete slab. What are my options for wood flooring and installation?

A. Homes with a concrete slab can choose from a variety of manufacturers. These floors are generally glued down or floated over the concrete.

Q. What is the difference between glued down floor and floated floor installation?

A. A glue down floor can be installed directly over the concrete, a vinyl slip sheet, or on a plywood sub-floor. The adhesive is applied to the surface and boards are installed. A floated floor can be installed over concrete, vinyl slip-sheet plywood sub-floor or any other level hard surface. First a plastic sheeting moisture barrier is placed over the plastic sheeting, secondly a foam underlayment is installed over the plastic sheeting, and finally the flooring is installed. Depending on the individual manufacturer, the boards will either be glued at the seams or they will simply click together without any adhesive required. Once installation is complete the glue down floor will have a more "solid" feel to it while the floated floor will have a softer feel and a hollow sound.

Q. What is the difference between a laminate, solid hardwood and an engineered hardwood floors.

A. Laminate- core of product is typically made of High Density Fiber (HDF). The top layer is a photographic layer that should appear identical to the product it replicates, be it wood, vinyl, tile, etc. The product is generally 3/8” thick and is a floating install with tongue and groove glue less locking system which allows you to install and uninstall the floor several times if desired. This product is typically the least expensive. Solid Hardwood- the product is the solid natural wood species throughout the entire piece of flooring, typically with a tongue and groove installation. Good sanding and refinishing capabilities. The product is typically more expensive and has some limitations as to where it can be installed due to moisture issues.

Q. What are the costs involved in installation?

A. In addition to the cost of labor and materials of the flooring you choose, other costs may apply. These costs would be to remove any existing floor coverings, leveling the existing concrete/ plywood, transitions, baseboards and base shoe moldings. There may also be an additional charge for the materials and labor if a custom installation is requested. Floors installed on a diagonal require more material due to the angle cuts and patterns take longer.

Q. Besides oak, what other woods are available in wood flooring?

A. One of the most exciting aspects of hardwood flooring today is the variety of exotic hardwoods now available for flooring. Most major brands have a line of exotic as well as domestic hardwood floors. Some domestic species include Walnut, Ash, Hickory/Pecan, Birch, and Cherry and etc. The popular exotics are Brazilian cherry, Caribbean cherry, Caribbean walnut, Santos mahogany, Caribbean rosewood. Known for their rich color, these floors are as durable as they are beautiful.

Q. I am considering a more custom look. Is this something your company can do for me?

A. Our installers are all in-house employees and go through regular training programs. From basic techniques to the latest installation methods and requirements including custom distressed plank, borders, parquet patterns, inlays, and medallions.

Q. Can I refinish an engineered floor?

A. It depends upon the thickness of your hardwood layer but the fact is that 95 % of hardwood surfaces are never refinished. With the high quality finishes that are offered and the extensive process that refinishing a floor entails, damaged areas are often removed professionally. If sanding is desired, typically, the professional sanding procedure removes 1/32 of an inch. Thus if your floor has a 2mm layer you can sand the floor 1-2 times.

Q. I am interested in laminates that look like wood but are not. Do you carry these products?

A. Yes. Laminate floors such as Wilsonart and Bruce Traffic Zone are growing in popularity due to their low cost and durability. Although not bullet proof, laminate flooring is well suited for most rooms where there is heavy foot traffic.

Q. I already have an existing hardwood floor It doesn't need refinishing but I am starting to see traffic patterns in my high traffic areas. Is there anything that can be done for this?

A. Yes. To avoid sanding and finishing your floors prematurely, every 5-7 years a regular urethane finished floor should be re-coated. Re-coating your floors will add a new surface finish and remove surface scratches and traffic patterns due to normal wear and tear. This low cost service is usually a 1 day process and is about a third of what sanding and finishing would cost. If this is done when patterns traffic are noticed, you should not need to refinish your floors unless you want to change the color or have significant floor damage.

Q. I am installing the floors myself; do you sell materials without installation?

A. Yes. We can provide you with all the necessary materials to install your own floor, including adhesives, trowels, trims air vents and etc.